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| March 11, 2011 |
http://detnews.com/article/20110311/LIFESTYLE01/103110303 |
Prime time for painting
The pros can help you brush up on an annual rite of spring
SUSAN R. POLLACK
The Detroit News
Debbie Zimmer still remembers the time a co-worker at the Paint Quality Institute — someone she thought would have known better — asked her how to remove red paint from furniture after he used an exterior paint sprayer on his dining room walls.
"I was just stunned," recalls Zimmer, a color expert who has answered consumer questions about paint and painting for 20 years. "You just don't use an exterior sprayer for an interior job!"
She recommended he bring in a professional cleaning group, sooner rather than later, because the paint would be increasingly difficult to remove the longer it "cured," or hardened.
Using the proper tools and top-of-the-line, 100 percent acrylic latex paints are among the key recommendations Zimmer dispenses in her job as director of the Paint Quality Institute, a Dow Chemical subsidiary based in Philadelphia and dedicated to disseminating non-branded information on color trends, decorating with paint and using quality paint and coatings.
With spring finally in sight, we turned to her and local paint expert Brian Eisbrenner of Shelby Paint & Decorating for tips on how to get started using paint to freshen our nests.
According to Zimmer, the number of homeowners who qualify as "frequent painters" and paint every year — 20 percent of U.S. households — is about the same as "dormant painters" (21 percent) who may go decades without picking up a brush or hiring a painter.
In between, are the 60 percent of consumers who follow the average painting cycle for interiors of every three to seven years, she says, mostly to change colors. For exteriors, it's more like seven to eight years, with homeowners typically painting the front door or shutters.
A quality paint job will last 10 years or more, Zimmer says.
For both interior and exterior painting, good surface preparation is critical and represents 80 to 90 percent of the finished paint job, she says.
"So many people think they're just going to get out there and open that gallon of paint," Zimmer says. "They're not attentive to preparing a clean, sound surface that's free of chipped and peeling paint, mold and mildew."
After scraping away loose or flaking paint, the old paint that remains will probably have rough edges, she says. If they aren't sanded properly, the new paint will flow over them in a thin coat, creating areas vulnerable to dirt and mold.
Painting bare wood that has been exposed to the elements for even a few weeks can lead to cracking and peeling after only a year or two, she says. But this can be avoided by thoroughly sanding the weathered wood, then priming before applying paint.
Almost any exterior paint job will benefit from a coat of primer, but it's especially important to prime wood that has not been previously painted, according to Zimmer. The same holds true for any wood that has no paint — either because it has peeled or flaked off, or because of rigorous scraping and sanding during surface preparation.
Moisture seeping behind the paint can result in blistering and peeling, something that careful caulking can prevent, she says. Check open seams at corner joints, anywhere windows and doors abut walls, and splits or cracks within the siding.
Trying to economize by thinning paint or applying too thin a coat invites cracking and peeling, she says. It also can result in greater susceptibility to mildew.
Weather conditions are critical, according to Zimmer, who pegs ideal painting temperatures at 50-85 degrees with little or no wind, and no rain or heavy dew expected within 24 hours. And avoid painting in direct sunlight.
"Follow the shade around your house," she advises. "Direct sunshine can dry paint too quickly as it flows off the brush or roller, and you may not get a smooth, durable paint film. Also, applying latex paint when the outside temperature is very cold can keep it from adhering properly."
While top quality, 100 percent acrylic latex paints cost more than run-of-the-mill exterior paints, they last a lot longer and often require fewer coats, Zimmer says.
Preparation and top quality acrylic latex paint are keys to successful paint jobs, agrees Eisbrenner, president of Shelby Paint & Decorating in Shelby, Rochester Hills and Grosse Pointe Woods. He offers these interior painting tips: Remove as much furniture as possible from the room.
Use drop cloths to cover the floor and any remaining furniture. Plastic is ideal for furniture, but canvas drop cloths have several advantages: They absorb paint, are not slippery, will not move and can be reused.
Next, remove pictures, mirrors, window treatments and electrical switch plates. Loosen ceiling plates of hanging light fixtures and cover the fixtures.
Because surface dirt can cause poor adhesion, use a light detergent to wash surfaces that are soiled, touched often or that may have oily residue from cooking. Avoid leaving soap residue.
Wash doors and trim, particularly where they're handled. After they're clean, wipe surfaces with a damp cloth and allow to dry before painting.
Use a liquid detergent to remove markings left by pens, crayons and water stains; wipe with clean water. Spot-prime remaining marks with products such as Benjamin Moore's QD 30 or Fresh Start to prevent "bleeding" through the finish coat.
Prepping the surface Glossy surfaces/imperfections
To ensure proper adhesion, sand glossy surfaces with fine sandpaper. Be sure to remove sanding dust. Vacuum surfaces clean and wipe with a tack cloth.
Examine floor, wall and ceiling surfaces for nail holes, cracks or other surface imperfections. Rake out any large plaster cracks or loose particles in walls and ceilings with a putty knife.
Spackling
Firmly press spackling compound into crevices with a putty knife and smooth until the compound is flush with the surface.
To fill mitered trim joinings (which are open) and door or window trim that is separated from the wall, press the compound into the crevices and smooth it with your finger. Allow it to dry and then sand lightly.
Because patching compound shrinks when it dries, it's often necessary to apply a second time after the first coat has dried. Try products such as Moorlastic Lightweight Compound and Moorlastic Vinyl Spackling Paste.
Loose paint
Use a putty knife to remove any loose or scaling paint. When removing paint from walls or ceilings, sand paint edges to ensure a smooth surface. This will marry the two levels of paint so the edges will not be noticed when re-coated.
Sand the entire surface with a fine sand paper when removing paint from doors, trim or sash.
Priming
Forget the common myth that walls that have been painted many times don't need priming. Many latex paint layers actually can result in a very absorbent surface that requires priming.
It's usually not necessary to apply primer to sashes, trim and doors that already have an enamel finish unless they've had extensive repair work.
Wine & Design 2011
Shelby Paint & Decorating is hosting a series of Ladies Night Out "Wine & Design" clinics from 6-8 p.m. at its three locations: March 22, Rochester Hills, (248) 651-1440; March 29, Shelby Township, (586) 739-0240; and April 5, Grosse Pointe Woods, (313) 881-0344.
Topics include Benjamin Moore 2011 paint color trends, Gianni Granite counter top paint, stainless steel paint and designer wallcovering. Check www.shelbypaint.com to read Eisbrenner's "Ask the Experts" blog and to find how to get free 2-ounce Benjamin Moore color samples.
Paint 101
For more painting tips and a downloadable checklist you can take to the paint store, visit www.paintquality.com. Free apps for smartphones called "Color Decor" and "Paint Remedy" also are available.
spollack@detnews.com
(313) 222-2665
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